Tired and cold, I’m standing in the waters of Portugal, holding on to my surfboard. The sun is shining bright, and the waves keep crashing one after another. I’ve surfed many times before - starting in Hawaii five years ago, then in New York, Virginia, Australia, and now here in Portugal. Yet, I’m still terrible at it. Surfing is tough, and seems to take forever to learn. The waves keep crashing and swirling you as you try to ride them again and again. The water can be painfully cold, even in a thick wetsuit. Your entire body aches from the relentless battering, and after just an hour, you’re starving. And still, like me, there are 20 other surfers out here, pushing through the discomfort and somehow enjoying it... but why?
I took a moment to reflect, and then it hit me... why I love surfing so much - IT'S LIFE.
Surfing makes you feel alive, and it mirrors so many aspects of life itself. It teaches you lessons that build resilience and help you embrace life even more.
In surfing, as in life, each wave is like an experience or opportunity that comes your way. You can choose to stay on the sidelines or dive right in.
Here is how it goes:
You get into the water, uncertain of what the day holds. You find out how you’re feeling and how much strength you have for the day as you push through the waves.
Sometimes a wave comes along and you think you totally got that one - you paddle hard, but just as you’re about to stand up, the wave crashes you, tumbling you underwater until you finally get your head out of the water to take that much-needed breath.
Other times, you see a wave approaching, and you know it’s going to wipe you out no matter what. And sure enough, it does.
Then, there comes a wave you try just for the sake of it, knowing you’d probably fail. You go for it, and get your happy face out of the water after swirling in it for a bit. You’re happy, just because you tried and had low expectations.
Finally, there’s that perfect wave - the one you ride all the way to the shore. You feel like a king/ queen. Excited, you rush back into the water, only to get crashed by the next wave.
The lesson? When you’re riding high, stay low. In life, just as in surfing, when you reach a peak, stay humble.
And just when you think you're finally at the point that you know what you're doing, a series of waves will knock you down, reminding you to stay grounded. In these moments, just like in life, remember to keep your head up so you can keep breathing and moving forward. This, too, shall pass.
At times, you truly need a break. You step out onto the sand, drop your board, and collapse. Rest is just as important in surfing as it is in life - if you push too hard without pausing, you risk serious mistakes or burnout.
HOW IT ALL PARALLELS WITH LIFE
If you want to experience the true peaks in life, to enjoy what you really want, to have that sincere smile on your face, to feel deeply fulfilled, to feel like you’re fully living your life, YOU GOTTA GO FOR IT.
Standing aside, in your comfort zone, letting the opportunities pass because they are too risky or intimidating will keep you from living fully.
And worrying about what others would think if you fail… Let me tell you, those out there riding the waves don’t have the time to watch others fail. They will notice only someone riding a wave so well, and watch with a desire to learn from them. The only people who judge are the ones standing at the shore. Do you really want to let them hold you back??
You don’t need to be a surfer to agree - just apply it to your own life, whatever it is you dream of doing.
Each wave is an opportunity, an experience.
Go for those waves, day after day, stepping into the water - sometimes cold, sometimes warm. Let the waves crash over you, enjoy the process of learning, of being humbled, and of rising again. Even when you know a wave will likely knock you down, take the plunge.
Go for your life, try whatever you desire, don't be afraid of failure - that's how you grow. And remember, you’re not alone. There are others in the water with you, getting tired, frustrated, hungry, but also experiencing joy, just like you.
Sure, you’ll see some surfers who seem like pros. You might think, “I’m terrible compared to them.” But you don’t know what they’ve been through - maybe they’ve faced harsh waves every day for years, or maybe they’ve been surfing since they were kids. Or perhaps you just happened to catch them during their two perfect waves out of a hundred. It’s the same in life: we are shaped by our experiences, and things are rarely as simple as they seem.
Don’t get stuck in the trap of comparing yourself to others or feeling frustrated because you’re not where you want to be. As long as you’re getting into the water, facing the waves of life, you’re challenging yourself. And that’s how you’ll eventually ride those great waves, jumping off with a smile... only to be knocked down again by the next. 🙂
Whatever makes your heart race and your breath catch, keep doing it.
Life is to be lived. 🩵
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